Shorts: part two
Now that we have our pieces cut and overlocked from last time, we can begin construction!
I'm going to focus on explaining how to sew the hip yoke pockets. I was a little confused to start but once you've wrapped your head around it, it's easy! I promise.
Stitch the darts into the shorts and press towards the back. Lay your pleats into the front of the shorts and baste (stitch 'em down).
HIP YOKE POCKETS! Pictures below. Stitch pocket pieces to the opening edges of the front shorts pieces with right sides facing. Turn the pocket pieces to the inside.
Place your hip yoke piece face up.
Place your shorts front onto the hip yoke piece, facing up. Now you can see the "hip yoke" styling – the diagonal front seam with the fabric of the pocket piece showing out at the side.
That's it! Now stitch the pocket pieces together. Baste pocket pieces to the inside of the shorts front piece so that they don't flap around and caught in your other seams by mistake.
Stitch the side seam that you don't want the zip in! You will catch some of the pocket, but that's okay. Now stitch both inside leg seams. To join the two sides of the shorts together, pull one shorts leg into the other, making sure the right sides face each other. Now stitch down the centre front and up the centre back, all in one seam. Basically what you have now is a pair of finished-looking shorts with an open side seam.
Now for the waistband! Fold your waistband piece in half along the length and press. Pin the one long edge of the unfolded waistband to the top of your shorts, right sides facing, and sew it in place. Once this is done, you can set your zip.
Set your zip in place from the upper waistband edge. Note that because you have not yet folded the waistband, the upper waistband edge is in fact where you have ironed your crease. This is important! I got carried away with myself, folding and securing the waistband prematurely. This misstep makes for a slightly messy zip closure.
Press the seam allowance of the waistband to the inside and sew in place by hand. Hem the shorts and you're done. Et voilà! Summer shorts!
This was actually a very quick project once I knuckled down to do it. I reckon you could whip these up in a day if you had the time and inclination. I was utterly daunted by shorts-making, but now I am a convert. There will no doubt be more to come.