Faux leather jacket: part 1
Not only does a leather jacket look a bit hardcore, but you also have to bring that attitude to the sewing machine. As I've discovered, the fabric manipulation is a lot more "hands on" than your usual dressmaking requirement. The pleather needs some muscle to bend it to your will!
Here are some guidelines I'm following to get the best result.
I’m using a leather needle to help puncture through the fabric. The effort involved in manipulating the pleather is all down to the thickness and stiffness of the fabric. Let your needle help you!
Relieve the downward pressure of the foot on your sewing machine. Especially when top stitching through three layers, this is particularly useful as it allows the fabric to glide through the feed dog with ease. Use a few practice scraps to get the tension spot on. I found too little downward foot tension resulted in wobbly top stitching.
When pinning was necessary, I tried to pin only in the seam allowances in order to avoid pin holes in my fabric. That's the daunting thing about pleather! As soon as it's punctured, those pesky little holes aren't going away. Pin and sew with caution.
The pattern I'm using is the Burda Style Desert Moto Jacket (02/2014 #128). It was only for tall sizes in my magazine, so I took a few centimetres' length out of the bodice and the sleeves for a more petite fit.
I will admit that this is my first serious attempt at sewing a fitted jacket, but so far so good! The pieces slot together well and I find the top stitching very satisfying to do! I found that the shoulder yokes needed a bit of easing in, which looked ever so slightly bunchy. That said, after clipping the seam allowance and top stitching, the shape is dreamy.