Laying out and cutting out your pattern
Welcome back to the next part of the Amy skirt sewalong. In the previous post, we covered what you need to get started, and how to cut out your paper pattern. Today, we're cutting our pattern pieces out of our fabric. Scissors at the ready, let's get started.
DEMYSTIFYING THE SELVEDGE
To begin, you need to find the selvedge – the selvedge looks like a woven band down the side of your material, and often has small holes (like a pin prick!) in the edges.
Match the selvedge edges of your fabric and fold it in half, with the right sides facing in. I know it can sometimes be difficult to know which side of the fabric is the "right" side. If your fabric is printed, it's usually easy to tell but some fabrics are notoriously tricky. I'm using melton for my Amy skirt and it looks really similar on both sides. My go-to trick for telling the right from the wrong side is to look at the selvedge: the tiny holes in the selvedge are usually raised on the right side of the fabric, and flat on the wrong side. But, if you're still struggling to tell, don't stress about it – just choose a side and stick with it!
LAYING OUT YOUR PIECES
Place your paper pattern pieces onto your fabric, following the diagram in your booklet. It's important to note that the front skirt piece and the waistband are lined up with the folded edge. The front and back skirt pieces are cut from the same pattern piece; the front is cut on the fold, and then the paper pattern piece is reused to cut two back skirt panels.
As you place and pin your pieces, pay attention to the grainline marking on each piece. On woven fabrics, the grainline is the thread that runs parallel to the selvedge edge. The fabric is the strongest along this line and offers the least amount of stretch. It is important to line your pieces up with the grainline to make fitting and sewing easier.
Remember, the pattern has 15mm seam allowance on all sides (except the hem which is 30mm), so you can cut along the edge of the paper pattern when you snip into your fabric.
Once you've cut out your waistband, cut another in your fusible interfacing.
TRANSFERRING PATTERN MARKINGS
Using tailor's chalk or a dressmaker's pen, mark your pocket and zip placement lines.
It's a quick one today, next time we will be taking our skirt to the sewing machine!
New here? Have a look at the first Amy sewalong session: Welcome and introduction to the basics